Small Town Rule: City Plumbing

Now, some people rule small towns because, simply, they are so essential and they don't take advantage of this, but rather serve with honesty and father-like care.

Mike has a last name, but in Lander he is simply known as "Mike At City Plumbing." City Plumbing, run by Mrs. Mike At City Plumbing and other guys that look like Young Mikes At City Plumbing, is in a King Spot, right downtown on Main St, nestled between Neat Repeat and the Lander Journal; the City Plumbing sign is just simply, more than a fixture: it is a fixture. I can't really imagine Lander without the blue and white fifties-era sign, and I've always thought that Mike keeps the store the way it is, because he doesn't really need any more than that...his business is not about flash. or novelty, but about small-town connections and help.

In the same vein, Mike's front windows do not sport the coolest new toilet or shower, nor do they have posters of ladies smiling at flowing water in a sunny, immaculately empty?! (beyond the proverbial fruit bowl) kitchen. Mike seems to know that no one really cares that much--plumbing should be neither seen nor heard--and this is a good philosophy. Instead, he's got pictures of Old Lander--lots of old 4th parades, the biggest event in Lander. I like one photo, from probably about the time the camera made it out here: A row of cowboys--and I mean, down-and-dirty, decked out real ones, with faded blue jeans (from work) matching the ghostly-looking, intense, faded-blue eyes--stand one-legged cocked, relaxing, watching the parade. One of them is looking quite intensely, almost angrily, at one of the people passing by in the parade. If you follow his eye gaze, you come to rest upon an Indian--a real one, decked out in the amazing soft-leather beaded outfit, with a strong and beautiful profile and long, black braids, and feathers aloft. He looks like he is part of the horse he is riding, and he sits tall and proud, as he passes the cowboys.

I've spent awhile looking at the Old-Timer ghosts in Mike's pictures before going in to talk about plumbing issues.

Inside the store--well, it looks more like a workshop sort of organized into shelves. This is a working place, not a store, really. Mike has put up signs around, like: "Got complants? Go to Helen Waite." As I wait for Mike, I look through his other funny cartoons pasted to the back of his computer; finally, here comes the Man. He is a big and warm bear with blue eyes and a square Scandinavian face. "How was Australia?" he guffaws, "Glad to be home?"

"Oh, yeah," I say, liking being home more because I just remembered there's lots of people here like Mike, who remember you, and who somehow remember that you left and went across the planet, and wonder why on earth you'd want to do that.

He says, "So, listen, I'll talk to Polly over there and we'll fix up that damn boiler. You know, it is cheaper in the end to do it once and do it right."

Mike's got lots of time-tested common-sensisms like that and I like each one.

Why are plumbers rulers of small towns? Well, it isn't just any plumber--the only other plumber in town seems to get a kick out of gouging people when Mike isn't available. Mike, himself, is someone who will go to bat for you with insurance adjusters and will do exactly what is needed, not more, not less. He's honest and kind, and plays a mean games of racquetball, too.

Mike and the Young Mikes see you, often, at your worst moments, when you've been fighting with sh-% for hours and they come and save you; and they are no luxury in a small town in the middle of nowhere when the temps can go down to 30 below, and you need that boiler working and the pipes unfrozen. You're absolutely dependent upon them at times, completely helpless. So, you see, you can't do the Big City "Oh I'll just shop around"--in a small town; you do well to know Mike and be as honest and courteous with him as he is with you.

Home owners know that plumbers know your house better than you do--Mike also knows about our house in the years before we owned it. "Oh, yeah, I remember that weird dual garage/laundry room heater in there..."

Plumbers also deal with the waste and the heat and the water, all very basic things to keep our home a home and not a cold sewage swamp. They are like priests, in a way...okay, don't try to lynch me yet, Catholics. Remember that Hanging Tree is gone?

How are plumbers like priests? Or priests like plumbers? I'm thinking of priests in the confessional; a plumber, like a priest, helps you deal with your waste, with your most basic need of keeping things moving and healthy and warm and all that. Spiritual growth, charity, grace flowing...

You need a plumber, like a priest, in your worst moments, when you're the most helpless...and it helps, more than that, it gives you hope when you find a plumber or a priest that you feel comfortable with, whose advice you trust.

Okay, I know they are different, too. I actually got this comparison from a great priest, who told me once, when I was a new Catholic, that being  a priest in the confessional is like being a sewer pipe. It showed me how difficult that vocation must be at times.

Mike At City Plumbing, along with his family, help keep Lander running and happy. So make sure you visit City Plumbing and look at the photos in the window if there's a sign on the door saying, "Back at---."

Small Town(s) Rule(s)

 

I now, once again, live in a small town. Not only do I live in a small town, but one that is almost a five-hour drive away from the nearest large city. Not with quite the isolation of Perth (1500 miles from any other city), yet it is an island of Cowboys, Native Americans, Granolas, and Academics in a sea of high desert and mountains. Culturally, this is still the Old West in some ways (a handshake is as good as a contract and lots of people 'carry'), but it is an interesting mix of various eccentric adventurers and just comfortingly regular people. One characteristic that seems to bind together this particular Old-New West town is an independent spirit. From the Native Americans who once roamed this land in search of white-tailed deer and buffalo, to the pioneers and cowboys who built the ranches and the town, to the outdoor adventurers and the college students, the one common trait is that love of 'getting out there and getting something done.' And in order to stay here, in Lander, and to be happy, you have to have some of that. There ain't no café navel-gazing culture here. Well, maybe a little. I kind of like that, to be honest.

The old Lander held Butch Cassidy in it's little makeshift jail in the late 1800s; Calamity Jane cracked her whip hereabouts, and as one Old-Timer told me once while sitting next to me on the Vomit Comet (the small plane out of nearby Riverton), "Lander was a fightin' town, with bars up and down the dirt of Main St." This Old-Timer called himself a "half-breed" (half Native American, half European) and he was a thin giant of a man, who could carry the ten-ton cowboy hat with the feather in it like the best of them. Like many Native Americans, he could almost speak to horses and once trained for Roy Rodgers; also a veteran of the tough oil fields in Wyoming, he now travels to Russia (and maybe Perth, come to think of it) to inspect oil rigs. If you saw him in person, you'd believe every word of it. He grew up in Lander and told me that Main St itself, only paved in the 1960s or 70s, was made quite wide (a four-lane road) simply because ranchers used to run the cattle right through town. Cattle don't walk in single-file lines except on cliff tracks. Also, I imagine Main St. got wide 'cause everyone wanted to build their stores and bars well away from the cow patties.

With the paved roads came NOLS, the National Outdoor Leadership School, an organization that really pioneered the concept and the value of outdoor education as a means towards strength and leadership.

This was actually the second culture-clash, after the original one with the Arapahoe and Shoshoni tribes whose shared reservation is nearby.

The Indian-White clash was here, as elsewhere, a painful tragedy. The Arapahoe and Shoshoni tribes do not have anything in common, but they were dumped together here; the present-day situation is a complex, painful reality that most people have never deciphered, but the reservation towns are places people generally stay away from. I visited a Catholic church once in Ethete, one of these towns, and met some of the elders of the tribe. They have a certain, un-explainable, ancient wisdom and a way of looking at life and religion that is both pure and also eclectic, in some cases a mixing of sweat-lodge mysticism with prayers to Our Lord. In them, you can see the ancient East in conversation with Western tradition. Most people on the reservations live in abject poverty, as if they are reluctant or unable to tame or cow the land under them, their trailers and tiny houses mongrel descendants of the teepees they once folded up when it was time to move to the next watering place. They seem to live floating just above the ground, in limbo between an ancient way and modern life; and it seems to create a vacuum of purpose for the young. Another acquaintance of ours has spent his life on the St. Stephen's Mission, an oasis of church and school, and he and his wife have--oh yes--one of the few buffalo (or bison, because there are no pure buffalo left) herds in the world. Ron told us as we fed these enormous creatures, "They only stay here because they want to. There isn't a fence that could hold them, and they can jump over anything they can get their chin on." St. Stephen's, with the buffalo herd and the eclectic Native-Christian murals on the walls, is a place you do feel for a moment, some hope, but I often wonder how the Native Americans themselves see hope for the future; it has always seemed that a people whose relationship to nature and movement with her movements is so crucial, yet are forced to live in the modern world of fences, simply have broken hearts.

The NOLS culture-clash was the meeting of progressive, more lefty-environmentalist types with people born from generations of pioneers who have spent their lives in hope of survival and planting trees, building and repairing fences and barns, shooting predators that threatened their very lives. NOLS is a major presence in town; they took over the old Noble Hotel on Main, and they have huge offices, dorms, classrooms, equipment-stocking buildings all over town. They bring in groups of strutting, excited youths ready for the challenge of survival in one of the last true wildernesses.

Then, in 2005 or so, Wyoming Catholic College was born. This has imported the academic into the mix, along with a huge influx of young Catholic families and students into an established parish, into a town that has many little churches of different denominations. As I've got to know both the academics and the wonderful parish people, I have been fascinated by the meeting of  Landerites and a bunch of mostly intense academics, and between generally older Catholics who had got used to a Vatican II style worship and those who are part of that phenomena in the Church, the young who yearn for the grandeur of the old.

Lander, I remember thinking quite early, is a happy town. People think up things and believe they can do them--in this, both NOLS and Wyoming Catholic College do fit here. Perhaps this is an inheritance from both the morally upright surviving Siberia-level harsh weather and the morally down-wrong bandits who suddenly found they could get away with major robbery. "Damn we're good" I can imagine them saying while racing across the tundra on horseback, when the reality was that there were a lot of hiding places and few lawmen. But moral buoyancy or not, still, like an echo of the adventuresome past, there is a buoyancy at each stoplight, as you wave to the at-least three friends you see on each trip downtown; the almost-year-round sunlight, intense high-altitude sun, probably adds to this. Even the yellow caution lights are ridiculously short-lived: Yes, Lander lives strictly in red-light and green-light mode. "Okay this stopped us. But let's get going now."

One of my favorite people here, a woman who has lived here all her life, was described by fellow townsfolk, when they gave her an award, as "The Most Relentlessly Positive Person We Know." That's saying a lot in Lander. And actually, it is true. She's got me to do things on horses that really, I had no business trying. But boy, once you've done it, and the incredibly tense-muscled beast slows back down to a walk, you look out over hundreds of miles, from the Sand Hills to the north, to Table Mountain to the south, and you feel more alive--and positive--than you've felt for ages. Once, I was riding, in that top-o-the-world mood, with a group led by Charlie Whitlock or Shetlock, or some such name, and he said, "Lirk ova thur--yuh kin see the Al Crick maowtins." I queried, quite innocently, "Who is Al Crick?"

"Naw, AWL CRICK."

"Okay."

"Naw, like the animul thit goes 'hoot'."

"Oh," it dawned on me, "Owl Creek."

"Yah."

You're probably, though, wondering about my new blog title. I really want to, without getting lynched (oh, good, the Hanging Tree which sat down by the current jail did finally come down a few years ago), talk about some of the underlying things in this little town, the 'rules.' These say a lot, especially the unspoken ones, about what people really believe, and how 'good fences make good neighbors.' Being in a small town is really more like going on a road trip with a group of people; you start to figure out how best to live with each other: and you can't be fakey for long, because everyone will soon see right through you, yet you can't just say whatever you're thinking, because that just ain't a good fence. So, here's what the title means:

1- Small Town Rule: Who really rules a small town? The City Council? Or perhaps it is much more subtle than that. Is it the Old Timer types who run the coffee Power breakfasts at the local inn, and who, in this way, curb all the young bucks?  In Oakdale, CA, another small town where I lived for awhile, the Power Breakfast was at the Busy Bee Café. Could it also be certain ladies who--somehow through mysterious means and various forms of hospitality and family connections-- influence everyone else, even those thinking they are at the Power Breakfast? A lady saying to another, "Let's have coffee" can very well be a political move in a small town, I imagine.

2-Small Towns Rule: After living in LA-style Sydney, and bits and pieces of Manhatten, and other cities and large urban areas, I've found that small towns have something essential to the human soul that you cannot have in a big urban area--unless, like in Manhatten, your neighborhood becomes your small town. I don't know what that essential element is yet, quite, but know it by intuition.

3- Small Town Rules: Every small town has unspoken rules. Here, in Lander, there's something called "Cowboy Ethics." And there are others that are just 'small town' and these are quite fun, really, and very useful once you know what they are. Just a taste: People seem to know what routes to take through town and through the aisles in the grocery stores so as to avoid lengthy catch-ups, if one is in a hurry--and if you happen to catch each other's eyes, and one smiles quickly and looks back intently at the beets, well, then, that's okay. Catch you another time.

Small Town(s) Rule(s).

The Last Word

Well, now that we're 'back again,' I suppose it is time to move on to another blog title. It will be called "Small Town(s) Rule(s)" and I am going to try and talk about life in a small town. Might not work, because in a small town in Wyoming, we all know way too much about each other already...but I'll try to walk that tightrope for a couple entries and see how it goes. I may get booted back across the Pacific. Maybe I can direct the booting and get across the Atlantic this time. Spain. Portugal. Night Train to Lisbon.

At any rate, I let the dust of Australia wash off me yesterday in the shower, and then over dinner Ana wanted to read to us her diary entry, "Going Home." I thought she should have the last words of this chapter, adventure, or what I call "20,000 Miles to Get a Toasted Sandwich Maker: or a Risk Gone South":

Going Home
by Anatolia

Nobody has the perfect life; everybody wants to appear happy but by doing so, end up taking away more and more of what happiness is. Happiness isn't charisma.

Through this whole journey, what has haunted me the most was not losing people, suffering, the hardships of this adventure, but rather the attitude that was a mask, something I encountered in myself and almost everyone else. I tried to grasp depth, but with the fear of lying to myself by listening to the testimonials of others, I slunk back into a hole of maturity, or the appearance of it. I easily become engrossed in stories, movies, and songs, so much so that I seek to become what so many other artists have sought to inspire.

So, being a searcher for deep and dramatic things, I wanted to come back to Lander as someone new and improved, a weathered adventurer who would not fear anything again. Some of this I did gain, but by trying too hard I lost what I most wanted to come back with--a free, selfless heart and the ability to be what God made me to be at the beginning. What I now know is I'm not alone; this goal is something that takes a whole lifetime and not even achieved then. Only when there is only God, like a song that envelops you completely, only then can God destroy you, what you thought was yourself, and bring you to life. I feel this desire, but I cannot trust Him when He puts me in the thick of it.

We've passed the Wyoming border sign. I will love going home with everything, even if those people I wish to be perfect, to love me perfectly, let me down and even if I let them down. If I continue in humility, it will destroy my pride. For this home of mine is not my home. But it is not separate from it. It is a part, more than that, in the timeless picture of God. It is a musical phrase that will lead on, creating the next; I will only catch glimpses of the tonal note, then it will die out, until harmony will put each piece of the journey together; the note that began it will resound forever.

In our adventure, I had so many countless prayers, but prayer is not really asking, it is receiving. Indeed God knows our prayers before we know them, and even in prayer that is confused and muddled, we are letting God fill a little more. Our prayers for Australia God knew, but it was a prayer that we did not know. In prayer we ask for what will make us happy, as if God has ignored our ideas and plans for happiness. No, we should ask for happiness--it is a sign of the willingness to receive; our asking must reflect God. Then the deepest desires will be gained through the loss of ourselves. In Australia, we lost our dogs, we lost the comfortable security of things functioning. I lost part of my childhood, the appearance of a family whose job will work, whose children will not experience hard things.

There is a lot of pride entwined with the attachment to simple securities and appearances of this world. But I did not hate or condemn myself for these vices. God longs to give Himself to crush this fear in me. Indeed, even Mom and Dad were angry at God and we lost some faith. Though many people have seen too much and others live too easily, too well, to believe, the losses of this dog-loving, pizza-eating, shouting, arguing family whose pride is constantly being destroyed, will be filled with more of God. We have scars, and battle wounds, good memories and a lot of tears, and this was God's way of fighting for us and crushing the deepest wounds inside us, fighting the monsters inside us, and finally freeing us.

To sum up the philosophical, theological and intellectual journeys we made, I would say something like what the Aussies might say: "Keep Calm and Love God."

Back Again

 

We left Huntsville, UT on a cool, rainy morning, well-fed with laughter and love: my cousin Cameron and his wife Ashley are magical people. Ashley is the daughter of the well-known sculptor, Bob Bennett, and is an artist in her own right. Her work, along with other Bennett work, hangs in a gallery in Carmel and she talks easily about lunch with Clint Eastwood, an old friend of her father's.

But Ashley is no star-struck lightweight. She carries deep personal tragedy along with her; after the event that nearly destroyed her, she fought for healing and wholeness, and now pours the depths within her, carved out by fire and water, out for others. Cameron is her perfect partner--a depth of understanding under a layer of silly fun.

Cameron and I laughed hysterically together, a moment jumping forward from our childhood. We talked about how we both rebelled, in our own ways, to the expectations of family, for both good and ill.

So full of love, we started our trek through impossibly high peaks rising again like giants out of the clouds: you drove along their feet and looked up at their heads. I was, inside, deeply grateful for the rain. For many months, I have been irrationally afraid of the drive through the sage sea, dry and endless, that is southwest Wyoming. But instead of burning sun, the water poured down on us like an overflow of grace; the road was a river and it almost ran us off the road with the force.

As we drove out of Farson (where they have big ice cream cones and not much else), and out of Eden (what? Steinbeck irony?), and into the expanse, we could see the Wind River Range, a spur of the Rockies, standing wreathed in cloud, blue-grey sentinels. The last time we traveled this road, on our way to Australia, it was laced with snow drifting across the cement.

The kids made up a homecoming song: a hybrid of Soundgarden's Rowing and some Christmas song. It is a tradition they keep up, and now their voices ring out strong and deep, adult voices instead of cute squeaks. They sang and looked for what they've been waiting for, for months of emotional struggle, of exile: Red Canyon, one of the beauty spots on this earth: a veritable rainbow of different colored rock and sky.

I prayed, as we drove through clouds on South Pass (7000 feet), that Red Canyon would be clear.

It was so fogged in that I couldn't see fifty feet ahead. I've never, in all our years here, seen fog like that in crystal Wyoming.

The kids, keyed up emotionally, went down fast. Ana wondered why on earth God didn't make it clear for them. I had no answer. Life, being the potter's clay, is the answer. Living with God, yielding ourselves to re-forming after mistakes, after disappointment, after success, is the answer.

But Lander waited.

"There's the Trautman ranch!!"

"Holy Rosary Church!!"

"Oh. McDonald's is still there. Oh well."

"Gannett Grill! Ace Hardware!"

And then, down Third Street to Mary Dean's. This place, how can I explain it? Not only is it beautiful, with flowers everywhere and 100-year-old cottonwoods rising out of green grass and a small creek running under little bridges, it holds so many moments of love: Tea with Mary Dean downstairs, hours in almost-heaven with the SOS girls, Mark Randall playing jazzy Christmas carols long ago, deep discussions over Dostoeyvski with the college ladies, talks with the freshmen college girls, the house full of children filming their first movie. There are also memories of pain, too: friends who once sat opposite in all their unique glory no longer there, no longer sharing friendship; times of tragedy when we sat staring, shocked, across the living room. It is the House of Memories.

Mary Dean took the Nomadic Kozinskis up to Cottonwood suite and I laid down in bed that night, thinking of a time, long ago, when once before God provided an earthly mansion n the midst of a certain kind of dependence and poverty, that of the nomad.

Long ago, I drove through the mountains of Virginia, lost in more ways than one. There was no room at my destination, a lonely place that I simply cannot describe. They told me, "Try down the road." Eleven pm. Lady in lobby.

"Well, we're full....except for the mansion. You can have that room for regular price."

It was a mansion, a true Virginia estate home. In my loneliness, I suddenly thought of the verse that Kenon's husband spoke of, the mansions God has in store for us; the ones He builds as opposed to the ones we struggle to gain.

Yes, God, lets Red Canyon be shrouded in fog, and more seriously, Gazans continue to die and leaders who hold people's lives in their hands try to make others in their own image--and destroy everything in the process. But, as I've heard from friends over and over, God also writes straight with crooked lines.

Over these last days, I've reunited with friends and am so grateful for every "We're so glad you're back." How much that means.

Father Dave asked the girls, "Okay. It was tough. What did you learn?"

Ana said, "What true Christianity means."

He replied, "Yes. And sometimes you have to go away to value what you have."

We are the clay; and God takes even our mistakes and makes them times of remolding. We can go ego-defense about our mis-adventure, or we can go claylike.

So, we're in God's mansion until we can get back into our house--and then we have to replace the boiler. Bummer.